By Joe Spoo DVM

So far we’ve gone over selecting a pup and what to do immediately upon getting your pup home. In this article we will discuss what I feel is one of the most important aspects of your dog’s health: the food you will feed your pup.

I usually end my presentations on nutrition with this statement, but will start this article with it to put things in perspective, “The food you give your dog is the one thing you do each day, that affects that dog today, tomorrow, six months from now and for the rest of your dog’s life!” It is for this reason that when selecting a food you have to look at it as an investment in your pup’s life and not as a total on the end of receipt.

With that in mind, the first step I like to do is classify dog foods as good, better and best. In my mind each dog should be fed the best food possible. Foods in the best category will provide your dog with the best energy sources, the highest quality of proteins for rebuilding and repair, and many added benefits to give your dog the best chance at the highest quality of life.

There are a few key items to look for when evaluating a food. The first and foremost being a good-quality animal-based protein and fat source, as dogs utilize these sources of protein better than plant sources. Next you will want to see a good mixture of carbohydrates (i.e. rice, wheat, barley, etc), which will help supply steady blood sugar levels. One over-looked area is fiber; beet pulp is a good fiber source and has also been shown to be very helpful in intestinal health, which translates into good quality stools.

Many high-quality foods will also have a number of added benefits in their ingredient list. This will include things like glucosamine and chondroitin, which can aid in building and maintaining healthy joints. The Omega 3 & 6 fatty acids are also important added ingredients and do many things in the body from healthy coat and skin, to anti-inflammatory effects and even help with brain development of growing puppies. Some foods will contain prebiotics and probiotics (the good bacteria that is in yogurt) which aid in intestinal health by promoting good intestinal bacteria and keeping bad ones at bay.

Other benefits will be minerals that are in a form most readily absorbed by the body called chelated minerals. And last but not least, many foods will contain anti-oxidants, which help repair damage that is associated with the aging process.

There are a number of good dog foods available, and unfortunately as a consumer it can get a little confusing when labels appear similar. While some labels may appear the same, the end product in the bag can be quite different, based on the source and quality of the ingredients, the recipe used, and the consistency of the manufacturer. Sometimes it just comes down to the reputation of the manufacturer, recommendations from others and, most importantly, how the food performs in your dog. No one dog food will work perfectly for every dog; this is why it is important to be able to categorize dog foods.

As far as puppies are concerned, with any of our sporting breed dogs I like to have them on a large breed growth formula. These are designed to be meal fed and to ensure slow and steady growth. They also have the correct levels of Calcium and Vitamin D to ensure the bones are constructed in a slow and steady manner. Often these levels are considerably lower in a large breed growth formula than they are in an adult food or a normal puppy food.

The problem with feeding an adult food rather than a puppy food is that the dog must eat more to supply the growing body, and not only are they getting more protein and fat with the increased volume, but they are also getting excess calcium (which leads to so many of our joint/bone problems). The problems that occur with improper nutrition in the first year aren't always immediately seen (though they can be), but rather these are the dogs that develop arthritis or hip problems at 5 or 6...or end up being retired early. Many of the joint and overall health issues we see later in life are related to the nutrition that a dog receives early in life.

One note on fat versus skinny pups: I LOVE to see the last few ribs on a puppy...roly-poly pups are cute in pictures, but unfortunately I dread seeing them in the clinic, as I know what this dog potentially has in store later in life.

Also, I can't stress enough the need to feed measured amounts. I usually start on the low end of a bag recommendation and adjust from there. Although large breed formulas are designed to slow growth down, if not meal fed they can be just as evil as any food available. It's kind of like throwing wood on a fire...if you give it to a growing dog they are going to use it. The problem is that they may not get fat from the excess food, but rather will just grow bigger. I think this is why we have so many "big" dogs out there by most breed standards. As an example, let's say you have a dog whose genes tell it to be 50 pounds, but with excess feeding during growth that dog turns out to be a lean 65 pounds. You now have a dog with a body 15 pounds bigger (30% larger) than it should be and this is why we see so many of our orthopedic problems earlier than we should. These bodies were not meant to be as big as we are breeding them.