Submitted 8/18/08

Q.) I have a 10-month old Pointer that came to me as a rescue. She is very, very thin. We have had her checked for parasites with nothing found. She is energetic but I am able to see her ribs and her bones seem small. She is kenneled with my other Pointer who eats the same food the new one is on and does well. What is a safe way to encourage the new pup to gain weight without causing my older dog to gain weight too?

A.) I would say that in practice it is rare to see dogs that are too thin on a consistent basis. What I do see is that there are a few breeds that tend to fall on the lower end of the ideal body condition scale, which means it doesn't take much to cause them to look too thin. With the bone structure concerns, it is not uncommon for some of these Pointers to appear very delicately boned; I have even heard some people refer to the bone structure as "cat-like."

By far, young Pointers are at the top of the list of dogs that border the healthy/too thin divide, followed closely by young Setters and then the versatile breeds. I look at these breeds as finally-tuned machines, and as such, they need a very controlled feeding regimine. Too often these same dogs are encouraged to eat too much by worried owners. In my experience this actually causes more trouble than good. The dog overeats, overloads its intestinal tract, develops diarrhea (and potentially vomiting) as a result and in the end loses weight, as the food is whisked out of the digestive tract prior to being utilized. This is where measured feeding to the individual dog becomes so important. Essentially you will need to find the perfect balance for this dog, not the two dogs fed together.

To accomplish this you'll want to set a structured eating environment where daily portions are only available for set amounts of time to establish for the dogs that they'd better eat when food is available or they may go hungry. It may take a couple of days of this new system, but eventually they should catch on. This will allow you to control both dogs' intake, which allows for better monitoring of overall health, and in regards to your question, have better control over each dog's individual nutrition program.

One note on thin dogs: as I mentioned earlier, these young pointing breeds tend to border on the edge of ideal body condition and being too thin. Almost universally you should be able to see the ribs in healthy specimens of these breeds. I use the hips and rear leg muscles to evaluate whether the dog is healthily thin or too thin. If the hips are prominent to the point they are easily felt and visualized, then the dog is too thin. The other benchmark I use is the muscle mass and tone of the rear legs. If the back legs are thick and muscular I usually don't get too worked up about the dog being too thin, as this is usually a good indicator of body condition, the exception would be good muscle tone but prominent hips...that may be a dog that is early in the stages of being too thin.

The short answers to your question would be that you have a breed that in a healthy body condition appears thinner than what most people are used to seeing. The key is to develop a controlled-nutrition program for your individual dogs.

Submitted 08/04/08

Q.) Can liver enzyme levels become elevated because of food allergies?

A.) Liver enzymes are a tricky area of interpretation. There are a number of things that can influence them, and they must be interpreted in the context of symptoms, magnitude of increase, medications, age of the dog, etc. etc.

With a food sensitivity or allergy I would not expect to find elevated liver enzymes. Now, a food toxin is another matter. For instance, the toxins seen in some of the recent food recalls can and do affect the liver and cause elevations in liver enzymes.

My typical plan of attack with liver enzyme elevations is to evaluate the big picture to make my game plan for moving forward. If the dog presented because it is sick, I likely would pursue it aggressively right away. This can range from liver function testing (usually done with bile acid testing), x-rays, utrasound, and potentialy a biopsy. If the elevation was found on a pre-surgical profile or routine screening in an outwardly healthy dog with no other blood work changes, we may just wait a couple of weeks and repeat the values to see if there is a change. The key is interpreting the dog’s health as a big picture and not just as one symptom or one blood work value. Once you have the big picture in mind, you can proceed with a diagnostic plan.

The one footnote I will say is that sometimes liver enzymes can lead down a path of no answers and can be somewhat frustrating. We have several older dogs in the practice with slightly elevated enzymes that we have never been able to explain. The specialists will agree that there is a certain set of dogs with slightly elevated values that do not necessarily have a medical problem.

Submitted 4/09/05:
Q:
Which commercial products or household pantry items would you cite for glycogen supplementing. The subject is an eleven-year-old setter female who is still hunting well and ageing well although the hunts are necessarily shorter. This questing is posed for the thought of recovery for a succeeding day hunt and not pushing this fine dog beyond her already exceptional litmits.

A:
My first recommendation would be to have me down on a hunt so I could evaluate this dog in person. In all seriousness, congratulations on keeping your dog in such fine shape, I really enjoy reading stories such as yours about keeping these older dogs in the field while at the same time having the utmost concern for their health and well-being.

As far as recovery is concerned I would first approach it from the food angle. I would make sure you are feeding a high-quality, super premium food to give her all of the fat and protein needed to effectively repair and replenish post hunt. As long as she has no other health problems (i.e. liver or kidney) I would seriously consider having her on a Performance diet during the hunting season, and start this diet about eight weeks prior to the season.

There appears to be a window post-exercise when the dog can maximally benefit from feeding. Typically during hunting season I will switch to once a day feeding and usually at the end of the day. You’ll want to make sure that the dog has cooled down and relaxed prior to feeding. For me this usually means when we get back home or to the motel room.

With actual supplements there are beginning to be some very good products on the market for keeping these dogs in optimum condition. In my opinion though, to get the most benefit, the labels need to be followed correctly to maximize the effectiveness. Unfortunately with some of the products this may prove to be quite expensive.

In my own dogs I have never done anything outside of feeding with my Chessie. Maggie, however, is a different story and has bonked on me a couple of times out in the field, particularly on long, grueling hunts. On these days I will use 50% Dextrose (a solution you could get from your vet) orally in the way many people use the energy supplements. It is a cheap and convenient method of keeping blood sugars and glycogen levels up. Dosing and usage will vary slightly from dog-to-dog and it is important to offer water as well because the concentrated solution can pull water into the intestinal tract and cause loose stools which would be counterproductive.

For your situation I would address the dietary side first and from there decide whether or not the supplement route is the way to go.

Good luck, and send me a picture of the classy girl out hunting.

NOTE: Since answering this question a number of commercial products are now available. I currently use those manufactured by TechMix Inc.

Submitted 1/30/06:
Q:
Do you recommend to supplement a hunting dogs diet with glucosamine daily or just after exercise? How about if the food he is getting is of high quality with glucosamine already in it?

A:
This is a subject on which my opinion has changed about 180 degrees over the last several years. Originally I was very skeptical of the benefits of glucosamine and chondroitin; however, I can say now that I truly believe in them. The important point is that most of the research has shown you need both together for the supplement to be effective.

First on the levels in dog food: these levels, even in their highest levels in food, are just background levels and not to the level we would term therapeutic. I look at them as being present to provide the building blocks to build and maintain healthy joints, but would not be significant enough to address arthritis issues. My personal change came in two forms: one is that I started having more and more clients start to use these types of products and profess the dramatic changes they were seeing in their dogs. The second influencing factor was in my own body. I had gone through an ACL reconstruction and meniscectomy and had been struggling with recovery for the better part of two years. It may have been a factor of time, but after the two year period I also started taking glucosamine and chondroitin and went from constant aches and pains to literally being able to complete a marathon.

As far as giving it as a daily supplement, this past hunting season my seven-year old Chessie started to show signs of joint and muscle problems, and I immediately put her on a combination product that also contained antioxidants. As a preventative measure, I also started my four-year old English Setter on this product. Now, this is not something I would make a blanket recommendation for all dogs, but depending on the intensity of the hunting/training, the age of the dog and other factors it is something that I discuss more frequently with clients than I had even a year ago. I would recommend talking this over with your veterinarian and find a product that would be right for your particular situation.

Submitted 10/23/07:
Q:
I have two chocolate labs that produce vile gas. Other than changing their food what else can I do or do we have a bigger problem than we think on our hands?

A:
A simple fix I’ve used in this situation is a dollop of plain yogurt on the food. The probiotics seem to help with the gas production and may actually eliminate the issue. I wouldn’t get carried away with the amount and I’d also make sure it is regular yogurt and doesn’t contain any artificial sweeteners or flavorings that may actually be harmful.

Although I have no personal experience with the products there are some prebiotic/probiotic specific products on the market that would also achieve this desired effect. Essentially the good bacteria out competes some of the noxious bacteria, which hopefully will result in a healthier digestive tract and less gas production.

I know you mentioned you would rather not change foods; however, there are now some foods on the market that do contain prebiotics and probiotics.

Submitted 9/11/07:
Q:
We have a 3.5 year old lab and feed him 3 cups of good quality kibble a day, dividing it up between breakfast and dinner. He is getting ready for bird hunting season now and my husband hears from his hunting buddies that he should be fed the total amount only once a day. Is that true? If so, when should he be fed in relation to hunting?

A:
There has been a lot of research into optimum timing of feeding with peak performance in dogs. The vast majority indicates that most dogs do best fasted prior to hunting and then receiving a once a day feeding after hunting. The feeding should occur fairly close to the activity but well after the dog has settled down, cooled down and is no longer panting.

I personally feed my dogs twice a day in the off-season and then once a day during hunting season. Maggie, one of my setters, does have issues occasionally with blood-sugar regulation. In her case I will feed her a small amount of food right when I get up in the morning and then the majority of her ration at the end of the day.

The theory is that these dogs do better with an empty intestinal tract. This is two-fold: one the blood supply is not being routed towards digestion and away from the muscles, and two, the extra weight of the food is not bouncing around in the digestive tract and causing microdamage from that bouncing.

From the timing of the feeding there appears to be a window of time following exercise that the body best optimizes and replenishes from the meal. The important thing with the fast pre-hunt or the once a day feeding is to not project how you would feel on the dog. I am as bad at doing this as anyone, but what works for my performance isn’t necessarily what works best for their performance.

Submitted 2/08/07 and 2/19/07:
Here are two questions relating to similar subjects:
Q:
I have a 20-month old English Setter who is on the thin side. He is up to date on all vaccinations and has no health problems. He is kept indoors. His weight problem seems to be that he is not a consistently good eater. He at times will eat very well for a few days and then will not eat much at all for several days. I have tried several premium foods and the problem does not seem to improve. Any advice on increasing weight? AND I’m sure you have heard this a thousand times…We have a picky eater. Our 9-month old Griffon that just picks at his food. Goes and smells it and walks away. I don’t think it is a lack of activity because we have him out running everyday for about ½ to 1 hour and then all the in between times. I would love to see him just eat his 2 cups that I give in the morning and his supper. I’ve tried everything. He only gets treats once in a while. My husband says he will eat when he gets hungry, but is he getting what he needs for a growing puppy.

A:
This is a very common concern of many owners of active young dogs. Some of it I think stems from the obesity problems in people and our pets. Very rarely do I have people come in, because their friends and family have been telling them they are over-feeding their dog to death; however, I do regularly get people in with very fit dogs who have received complaints from friends and family that they are “starving” their dogs.

Ironically I have been through these issues with my own English Setters and have a good friend with a Griff that is a thin-picky eater. The biggest thing I stress with these dogs isn’t the quantity of food consumed but rather everything else. Are the dogs active and energetic? Do they have good muscle mass, particularly over the thighs and shoulders? How is their stool quality? If all of your answers are positive, I wouldn’t get too worried. If any of these are questionable then I may want to look a little deeper for a problem such as fecal exams (floats and for bacteria) as well as potentially doing some blood work.

Many dogs grow out of this pickiness and eventually have to have their food monitored closer as they reach middle age. One other point to consider is that the recommendations on dog food bags are just a starting point for the majority of dogs. There will be a group of dogs that need more than the recommendations and another group that will need less.

I’m a fan of thin dogs, and with the pointing breeds, I particularly like to see a well-muscled dog. With thin coated breeds I also like to see several of the last ribs, and with a coated dog I like to be able to feel the last several. The key to me is the list of questions I presented initially and how you answered them. I very rarely see truly too-thin dogs. Some points to look for with too-thin dogs are, lack of good muscle mass, feeling the spine too easily, the points of the hips, etc.

My guess is you both have very normal, very healthy dogs; however, if there is reason for further concern I’d recommend visiting with your vet.

Submitted 8/8/06:
Q:
I have a two-year old intact female lab. She is very active and trains hard. We hunt about once a week and often for multiple days. She has great energy and can hunt pretty much all day. She is a very light eater. I can leave dry food out all day and she will just pick at it. She will however aggressively eat canned food. Everybody says she is too thin. You can feel and see her ribs but her coat is good. I have tried to resist giving her all canned food because I think she is just picky. Should I just give her canned food or make her eat the dry stuff? How do I know if she is too thin.

A:
One thing I routinely encounter in practice is the dog who is of perfect body condition that everyone thinks is too thin. As a society we have come to accept everything as being super-sized, including our dogs. Now, your dog may be thin; however, I’m betting she is not. There are several body condition charts available on line and with a quick internet search I’m sure you could find them and compare the recommendations to your own dog. Another method would be to have your vet evaluate your dog at your next visit.

Now, as far as the eating is concerned, there are a couple of issues here as well. You don’t state what kind or quality of dog food you are feeding. The first thing I would make sure is that you are feeding a high-quality premium food. If you are, then it may be worth trying a different brand or type within that brand. One of the lines I give in my nutrition talks is that there are a lot of good dog foods out there and not one company has the answer for every dog, some dogs just do not do well on certain brands while other dogs could do well on just about any brand.

With the feeding regimen I would also get her into the habit of meal feeding. By allowing her access to food all day she knows she has food and eats when she feels like it. I would recommend giving her measured amounts at regular intervals. For instance, if the recommendation for her is 3 cups a day I would set 1.5 cups down in the morning for 15 minutes, if she eats it, great, if not pick it up. In the evening I would set 1.5 cups down for 15 minutes regardless if she ate in the morning or not. Even if she doesn’t eat I would continue the process the next day, she will quickly realize that she needs to eat when food is available, not when she feels like it.

This has numerous health benefits, as it gets the dog eating regularly, you are monitoring the input and can tell if she is eating or not. With all of this being said it does seem like some young dogs will just go off of food for a day or two without any real cause or health consequence. It is almost like they are too busy having fun to stop and eat.

Submitted 3/27/06:
Q:
I went on a pheasant hunt yesterday with my five-year old intact male GSP who is in excellent health. He is current on all shots. It was 40 degrees with a slight breeze and cloudy. About 2.5 hours into the hunt I saw him on point in some scrub brush, as I approached him I could see he was moving but very slow, almost like he was dragging something. I called him out and he was trying to go forward but it was hard for him to move his legs forward. It was like the brakes were on. I immediately stripped his vest and collar. His breathing and heart rate were normal. Eyes were clear, no punctures. He still wanted to go forward. I sat with him for about two or three minutes and then had him heel to a slow walk. Within two minutes he was fine. I ended the hunt and went back to the truck. He was working on an empty stomach, he gets too excited to eat before a hunt. Is this a low blood sugar issue? This has never happened before.

A:
This is a tricky one, as it certainly could be a hypoglycemic issue, though with those conditions and a well-conditioned dog I would not expect it. That being said, if I do not use inter-exercise supplements with my setter Maggie, I WILL get into these types of issues regardless of the temperature, conditioning or time of the year.

The part that is confusing is your dog’s behavior. In my experience, many of the hypoglycemic dogs that I have seen either seizure, completely stop or become obviously confused, as though something is going on upstairs (which it is).

It would definitely be worth talking this over with your veterinarian, having an exam done and a full blood work-up, if for no other reason than for peace of mind. As far as “game day” nutrition, I subscribe to the school of thought of not feeding a dog on the morning of a hunt. I will, however, use some different techniques to keep my dogs going throughout the day and subsequent days. In the past I used just plain dextrose orally. Depending on the dog, I would either use it before, during and after in a dog like Maggie, or in the case of a dog like Emma, who has no issues I would just use it at the end of the day.

Last season I used a product called K-9 Restart, which is a powder that is mixed with water to entice drinking and also to provide some carbohydrates and other added benefits. I liked how this product worked in my dogs so much that I went through two cases of it last season. With Maggie I was able to get her enough energy to keep her going all day, and with Emma I could keep her hydrated, as she has always been a finicky eater.

Submitted 9/12/05:
Q:
I was seeking some advice previously on your website regarding hypoglycemia in dogs and your response and advice was great, thanks. I had one more question though. You had mentioned to feed a high-quality performance food with rice to use as a carbohydrate source. I have always fed my dogs a high-quality lamb-rice performance food. My question is, can I also add in either cooked brown or white rice in addition to their regular food. Would it help in carbohydrate supply and storage?

A:
I think I may have slightly muddied the waters with my last response. As far as dog’s energy is concerned, fat is their preferred energy source and hence the higher fat levels in the performance diet. Where carbohydrates come in are two-fold, as a fuel in the early stages of activity and as the only source of energy the brain can use.

In a food source I like to see a mix of carbohydrates with rice being the primary carbohydrate. Rice causes a quicker increase in blood sugar levels and the other carbs will balance that out with a more sustained level. Since you are feeding a high-quality food I don’t know that I would see the need to further supplement carbohydrates at that time.

Now, as far as immediately before, during and immediately post-exercise, carbohydrates can play a more integral role. They are important for initial exercise, supplying energy to the brain and to replenish. This is where you may want to supplement with carbohydrates. There are some maldodextrin-based products on the market that the science on looks to be great, the only draw back is price. Basically maldodextrin is a carbohydrate source that isn’t a simple sugar, but also isn’t a complex carbohydrate. The thought is it will deliver the needed sugars to the body at just the right time. The key to their effectiveness is using them as directed and not just once a day.

Others feel that during exercise you can use more simple sugars and not get the quick blood sugar spot and quick blood sugar drop…again we are talking during actual exercise and immediately post-exercise. In my own dogs, both early in the season and later when we are pounding things pretty hard, I will use 50% Dextrose orally as my carbohydrate source immediately before, during and post exercise. This has seemed to give the dogs added legs and mental sharpness as the day wears on.

Submitted 3/3/05:
Q:
I have a question on nutrition. I was recently looking at dog food labels and came across a High Energy Sporting Dog Formulas. What was interesting was that it has a guaranteed 24% protein about the same as standard high quality dog food), but the fat content was 20%. That’s 2-4% higher than other high quality dog foods and the same as most professional foods.

For “sporting dogs”—pointing dogs that run forever/all day long—is a 24/20 protein/fat ratio a good deal vs. the 30/20 for performance or the standard adult? Just as a note I was running the 30/20, but decided the cost plus the possible question on high protein and kidney issues wasn’t worth it.

I guess the big question—what should hunters look for in quality dog food? More protein? More fat? What ratio should we look for? Is this all just marketing hype?

A:
To answer the last question first, no it is not marketing hype. Performance nutrition is an extremely important component to keeping your dog in the field day after day and year after year. The key when evaluating diets, especially performance diets, is to make sure the diet has a quality, animal-based protein source, a good fat source and a balance of carbohydrates, usually with rice at least as part of the blend.

The reasons performance diets have increased levels of proteins and fats are several. Basically by providing a high-quality protein source you are giving the dog many of the tools it needs to repair the damage that is being done while working out in the field. The muscles, heart, lungs, etc. are all put through an intense workout and need to be repaired at the end of the day. Also, the enzymes that drive the reactions that allow us to perform are made up of proteins and amino acids…these too are replenished in the diet.

Dogs use fat as their preferred energy source, and hence the need for the higher levels in the diet. This is providing these athletes with the fuels needed to perform day after day. Throw in a good mix of carbohydrates to refill the muscle sugar stores, as well as providing energy to the brain and in the early stages of the workout.

The key is to determine if your dog needs a performance diet or not. Many dogs likely would do fine on maintenance levels, as they are not asked to perform day in and day out and can replenish their fuels and repair their muscles over the course of a few days. If you train your dog extensively during the week and off-season or hunt more than 30 days in a season (with trips of consecutive days) you may want to look at the performance formulas.

As far as the excess protein levels, in a healthy dog this is not a concern. Many of the original fears about excess protein and kidney damage came from studies done in rats. When the studies were repeated in dogs, it was determined that a healthy dog can get rid of excess protein levels without the worry of kidney damage. And actually, more damage can occur if your dog needs the excess protein and he is not getting it, as he will begin to use his body’s own stores.

If you elect to only feed the performance diet during the times your dog is very active and a maintenance level the rest of the year, it is important to switch the dog’s food about 2 months before the activity begins so that the body can also be “trained” to use the higher levels of these nutrients.

The “Sporting Dog” formula (24/20) isn’t one I necessarily buy into, as my thought would be if the dog needs the higher fat levels because he’s working hard, the protein would be just as important. Some of these modified formulas have been developed because some dog people have felt the higher protein levels make their dogs run hot. Though the actual problem is that the dogs were not being given higher levels of both protein and fat, and thus the performance was affected. The key is to look at the big picture when evaluating these types of products and your dog’s needs. Look for quality first and then begin to evaluate the different levels.

Submitted 2/18/05:
Q:
About ten days ago we acquired a Llewellin Setter from a small breeder a few hours drive from us. The breeder fed the litter about one cup each of puppy food, three times per day. Now that he is without competition at meal times he still eats ravenously like it's his last meal no matter how much we give him. We would like to be able leave a food dish out (as we do with our golden) where he can eat till he's full and leave the rest, but we are afraid to do so now.

Is there a point where our pup will realize there is no competition for food and slow down? Does a puppy eventually know when he is full to avoid overeating?

A:
This is one of the issues I enjoy talking with people about, as I feel it is an area that is greatly misunderstood. The simple answer is no, dogs do not have the ability to self-regulate. There are some dogs out there that appear to do so, though I would contend even those dogs are consuming more food than actually needed.

It is extremely important to feed a young growing dog a measured amount of food. I usually use the recommendations on the bag (the lower end of the range) as only a starting point and then feed to the individual dog…if he's skinny I'll up the food amount and if he's filling out then I'll cut him back. I personally like to see dogs on the thin side of normal range. With all of the sporting breeds we like to see slow and steady growth. Many of the problems we may see later in life (hip dysplasia, arthritis, etc.) may be strongly linked to the nutrition in the first year. A growing dog is like a fire, the more fuel you throw at it, the more it will grow, and although the dog may not get fat, it can grow to a larger size than it is programmed to grow. This is where a lot of the problems begin with the skeletal system over the remainder of the dogs life.

With older dogs that appear to self regulate, I still recommend getting them on a meal programm, as most are consuming more calories than needed. Although they may not be getting over weight, you are likely wasting dog food. By having them on a meal program it will also allow you to better judge changes in eating behavior as well as have the ability of controlling the diet later in life.

It is easy to get a dog that has been free-choice feeding on to a meal program. Allow free access to water, but only put the measured amount down for 15 minutes (if feeding twice a day, but half the daily amount down in the morning for 15 minutes, and half the daily amount (even if the dog does not eat in the morning) down for 15 minutes in the evening. Very quickly the dog realizes that if they want to eat they'll have to do so when the food is available.

One other important point on feeding is to remember these dogs are individuals and have changing needs throughout the year.

Submitted 1/9/05:
Q:
We have a pointer that is now 2.5 years old and is hypoglycemic. She did not show any signs until about 2 months ago when having several seizures. We have been feeding her several meals a day and doing conditioning. Is there any suggestion as to what type of specific food, supplements, etc. we could give her to build up her glucose? Also, is the hypoglycemia hereditary or just a condition of this dog that can be out grown? This condition was not present during her first 2.5 years and she was able to hunt al day with no problems.

A:
My answer is going to be based on the assumption that these episodes are only occurring out in the field and are a true “hunting-dog” hypoglycemia. If that is the case, I would continue on the path you are going down with an emphasis on conditioning and appropriate diets. The problem with some of these dogs is that they get themselves over-excited in the crate and end up burning through a lot of energy before they ever hit the ground, and when they finally do, they have nothing left to give. So, I would recommend trying to reduce the amount of anxiety and build-up associated with these events. As far as food is concerned, I would try to find a food that doesn’t cause rapid increases and, consequently, rapid falls in blood sugar. For a dog like yours, I would recommend a high-quality performance diet with rice as the preferred carbohydrate source. One note on these diets: it usually takes around eight weeks for the dog's body to become conditioned to the higher level of fats, so don’t expect an immediate turn-around. So, while you are physically conditioning the body, the body is also conditioning itself to utilize the tools given to it in the form of food.

I always recommend carrying a sugar source in the field for all dogs in case you are presented with this situation. (See article in library.) Sometimes strategically using dextrose orally during exercise can also help keep a more steady state of blood glucose levels while exercising. It is important to talk with your vet prior to beginning a regimen like this.

As far as the condition being hereditary, I’ve never seen anything saying there is a direct link. The thing to consider, though, is the traits that lead to this condition: hyper-excitement, hard-charging, body condition, etc. are things that can be passed on, thus it is important to look at the entire dog when making reproduction choices and to not breed a dog or eliminate a dog based on one trait.

Lastly, if she is experiencing these episodes outside of the field or at home I would worry about other major medical problems that will require an extensive work-up to address.

Submitted 11/13/2004:
Q:
I have a pair of dogs four and nine that simply will not eat anything while away from home on hunting trips. I have tried every device, food, flavoring, trick and enhancement to get them to eat. They literally go gaunt after a three-day hunt. I have the thought that an electrolyte imbalance and the resultant stress might be the problem. Any thoughts on the issue?

A:
This can be a tough problem, and I see it to a lesser degree with my setter. My guess as that it is not an electrolyte imbalance, but a simple matter that they are running out of fuel as they are going for three days without ever refilling their tanks. I would be very interested in your current feeding plan and type of food to offer some other theories.

For a general answer, I would make sure you are feeding a Premium food during the hunting season and preferably a Performance diet. This will make sure they go into the season in the best metabolic shape possible. I would also examine your off-season conditioning plan to make sure you are not simply over-extending them in the field. Also while on the road, what times are you feeding, where are you offering the food and how do all of these relate to the dogs’ schedule when at home?

The tricks I’ve used, and you may have already tried, are to mix a little canned food and water with the dry to form a gravy over the food. I also will sometimes mix a meaty “dog-burger” in the food, though this tends to allow the dog to pick out the chunks more than the gravy method. I had a vet school instructor who would make chicken broth from chicken carcasses (after the meal) and take a thermos of this concoction (minus bones) and use it to dress up the food. My bigger recommendation would be to examine the other points I made, off-season, regular schedule, etc. and see if adjusting these makes a difference.

Lastly, is it possible you’re hunting your dogs to the point of exhaustion and they don’t want to eat? With dogs that are not rested and hunted hard all day, they may just not have the energy or interest to eat. Outside of doing a better job of rotating the dogs and resting, the remedy I would recommend would be to add a third dog to the mix…or at least that’s my excuse to my wife for the setter we will be acquiring.

Submitted 11/7/2004:
Q:
We recently acquired a 14-week old Vizsla, already having a 2.5-year-old Vizsla. The older Vizsla has been free fed (except prior to hunting), as she tends to be anorexic (she was originally fed on schedule, but was not eating or gaining weight), and is a very trim 48 pounds. We feed her an adult formula food. She consumes around 5 cups per day give or take depending on her activity level. She is very active and gets a large amount of exercise both during hunting season and off. The young male weighs 25 pounds and is been fed a Healthy Start formula. Since the female is free fed, he helps himself to her adult food and vice versa. As of now the pup is being free fed given, as our experience with other Vizslas has tended to show them to be anorexic like our female. Would it be detrimental if we were to feed strictly a puppy formula to both at this time considering the lean nature of the older pup? What about a mix?

A:
You actually have several issues at play that I’d make recommendations on to change your current set-up. The first being the physical nature of the older dog: most pointing breeds (whether they are pointers or versatiles) tend to run on the athletic side in looks. Too many people interpret this as being too thin, when they couldn’t be farther from the truth. I am regularly presented with healthy dogs who eat and drink normally, look good, etc, but whose owner thinks something must be wrong because everyone tells them there dog is too thin. In dogs, as in people, we start accepting obesity as what should be normal and tend to think of the healthy dogs as being abnormal. As far as your perception of anorexia, this is another area in which most owners (including myself sometimes) tend to overreact. An otherwise healthy dog will not starve itself…now cats are a different story. Again, the pointing breeds tend to not be as aggressive eaters as other breeds, retrievers for instance. My setter will regularly skip a meal or two, especially during periods of high activity when I’d like her to be consuming her food normally. As long as the dog is otherwise normal, this type of behavior doesn’t usually send up much alarm.

With the above being said, my strongest recommendation would be to get the dogs back on a meal program. If they are hungry they will eat, and if you ever encounter weight problems later in the dogs’ lives, they will be easier to handle if you have an understanding of how much they are eating. As far as what to feed, if your Vizsla is very active, I would strongly recommend a Performance Diet. These diets have a higher level of calories and the proportions of fats and proteins that an active dog needs. Usually they are more energy-dense (more calories/cup) than a regular adult formula, thus the dog will be taking in more with less volume.

With the puppy I am also a believer in puppy-specific formulas, and, more specifically, breed size-specific formulas. What I mean by this is that dogs that are going to mature at over 50 pounds should be on a large breed formula and smaller dogs on a small or medium breed formula. The theories and practice behind puppy-specific formulas are that they are formulated to help with the correct rate of growth, bone and organ development. An adult formula will not have all of the nutrients necessary for these to take place correctly. The adult formulas are formulated to maintain, not to facilitate growth. This brings up foods that are formulated for “all-life stages,” while they may get approval to use this claim, often they may be adequate for all life stages, but they may not necessarily be what’s BEST for all life stages.

So, a quick summary: I would meal feed the dogs separately with a food specific for their life stage and activity level. With sporting dogs, I would also be sure to feed them a Premium dog food, as these will contain higher quality ingredients, to ensure your dogs are getting the best possible nutrition.

Submitted 10/21/04:
Q:
I read your recommendations about brands of dog food, but what about premium versus standard foods. I currently feed the Purina Premium product, but is it really better than your basic Purina Dog Chow? What are the differences?

A:
Dog foods, and more specifically dog food labels, are a very difficult subject for most people to grasp. The simple answer to your question is that yes, almost universally, the premium products are better than the basic lines. You can’t just compare ingredient lists and expect the two foods to be equal. Chicken by-product from one manufacturer likely will have an entirely different nutritional value than the chicken by-product that is listed on another bag…the trouble is that there isn’t a good way to know the difference. Most of the times your decision will be based on the quality reputation of the brand, recommendations from others and how your dog does while on the product.

The things that I look at when evaluating a food are other things the company is doing with the products, like adding in a good balance of the Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids and also glucosamine and chondroitin. They also should be using ingredients proven to be of good nutritional value to dogs and not just fillers. A lot of the price differences you see in these lines come from the quality of ingredients and the added benefits or supplements they have in them. Also the premium products usually will have a better handle on the fat and protein levels, particularly with how they relate to performance dogs.

My typical soapbox speech about dog foods is that you cannot look at them based on the receipt total the day you buy them. Feeding your dog is something you do from the day you bring your pup home until you say good-bye, and that feeding decision will affect him today, tomorrow and years from now. By feeding a premium product, you are ensuring you are giving your dog the best chance at a long and healthy life. Will a dog do fine on a non-premium product…yes, will he do better on a premium product…in my opinion, definitely.

Submitted 9/21/04:
Q:
I have a 12-year-old setter that has slowed down a great deal since last hunting season. I would like to get him in shape between now and the middle of November to be able to hunt for no more than 3 hours 1 day a week. What can you suggest? He is carrying probably an extra 3 to 5 pounds over his normal weight of 45 pounds.

A:
I applaud you for trying to continue to allow the old-timer quality time in the field. I always tell people that age isn’t a disease, but you have to be aware that diseases come with age.

My first recommendation would be to try to slowly get the extra weight off, both through diet and exercise. As far as a conditioning program, I would start out with gradually-lengthening walks followed by some light running on soft terrain (dirt or sand vs. asphalt). Definitely let the dog be the guide in this situation, paying particular attention to recovery time. If it takes him more than a day to recover, you’re probably pushing it too hard. There is no real magic program in a case like this, nor is the conditioning like you would use on a young dog. Basically you’re just aiming to allow the dog to have an enjoyable time rather than putting him through physical punishment.

Good luck this season and I’d love to see some pictures of your setter in the field.

Submitted 7/4/04:
Q:
What is the best feeding regime for a dog that will be hunting all day? A small meal in the morning, then again in the evening? 3 meals? Nothing until the end of the day? I want the dog to have energy to hunt all day but I don’t want them to be sluggish or nauseous from eating before the hunt. Please advise.

A:
The biggest point to remember is that dogs aren’t people and you can’t project your nutritional needs onto them. This was one of the biggest hurdles for me to overcome when I started using some of these performance nutrition techniques in my own dogs.

Much of the current research indicates that a 24-hour fast may greatly benefit dogs going into a workout situation, thus if you a planning on starting your hunt in the morning make your dog’s last meal the morning before the hunt. With my own dogs I’ll typically still feed them the evening before a big hunt, but early in the day and as we get into the season I’ll typically stick to the fast. As far as the day of the hunt is concerned, I will feed them no food in the morning and will give them their entire day’s ration at the end of the day. Make sure your dog has calmed down from the hunt and is done panting before feeding them post-exercise, as feeding a dog too soon could result in serious complications, such as bloat. Typically the car ride home will be long enough for them to cool down. It is important though not to wait too long, you want to try to get them fed in close timing with the hunt to help their bodies more adequately replenish themselves.

If it is a several day hunt I will continue with the once a day feeding in the evening through the hunt. You won’t be getting the 24-hour fast prior to each workout but even the 12-15 hour fast will still have numerous benefits.

This type of feeding program will help you dog’s body optimize the nutrients in the food, both during and after the exercise. The other big benefit is that by fasting it will help empty out the dog’s digestive tract, which leads to less weight to carry around…equaling less workload. The body can also direct blood flow to the muscles where the work is being done as opposed to trying to absorb energy from the digestive tract and, most importantly, it will help cut down on loose stools. For years we thought the numerous stops for bowel movements and loose stools while hunting were stress and excitement related, but now the current theory is that the stool bouncing around in the colon is actually causing damage to the colon, which leads to diarrhea. I have noticed a huge decrease in the amount of stool my dogs have when hunting/training while on this feeding program, especially compared to my training partner who still insists on free-feeding his dogs.

As far as energy sources throughout the day see the following question for suggestions on that front.

Submitted 7/4/04:
Q:
On UJ (www.uplandjournal.com) there is a thread on “quick energy” for hunting dogs.

I’ve heard that dogs process fat better than carbs. And that cooked rice with lard formed into cubes is good, but my dog didn’t go for them. Also he didn’t go for the ProPlan Power Bars.

Here’s what I do: I filet out chicken breasts keeping the meat for the family. I then cut the skin/bones/cartilage into chunks and freeze; feeding them at least an hour before hunting and at lunch breaks of at least an hour. What’s your thinking?

A:
First I’ll address the fats vs. carbs. One important point is to break this down into two categories, overall energy utilization and short-term utilization. On the whole, dogs utilize fat as a preferred energy source in the way that we as humans would use carbs, but as an immediate energy source (fuel for the brain, initial muscle activity etc.) dogs still need carbs. So for the day-to-day nutritional needs of an active dog I would recommend a Performance Diet with higher levels of fats and proteins to address the big picture energy needs.

For the actual performance event (field trial, day of hunting, training, etc.) I will use strategic carb feeding. This is the theory behind the performance bars on the market. Typically what I will use is 50% Dextrose (available from your vet) and give a dose about 15 minutes before going into the field and then throughout our time in the field with a goal of giving some every 30-45 minutes and then again at the end of the workout. This has worked for me, as it is easy to give (draw it up in a syringe and give orally) and it is dirt cheap compared with some of the other methods on the market. In my setter I see a noticeable difference in endurance level and energy in the field when I’m supplementing compared to when I don’t. With my chessie I haven’t bothered to attempt this, as I haven’t felt there was a need, one dog goes all out and hits the wall the other paces herself for an all day run.

There is some disagreement out there as to whether one should administer a straight simple sugar source, versus also giving protein and fat with the strategic feedings. The straight sugar camp has research that demonstrates that protein and fat when given with the carb source suppresses the body’s ability to utilize the sugar through decrease in insulin and decrease in cell uptake. The other camp says that with sugar alone you will get an insulin spike and a resulting large drop in blood sugar levels. As far as which camp is correct I can’t say, but I’ll continue to use the straight Dextrose until I’m convinced otherwise. One other note--I would talk with your veterinarian before using any of these methods to ensure you are using the correct amount in your dog and that your situation warrants the extra effort. Much of this nutrition information is targeted at those trial dogs or hunting dogs that compete a majority of the year. If I hunted my dogs just a few weekends a year I wouldn’t bother with any of this.

A comment on your current technique, you don’t mention if the stuff you are feeding the dogs is cooked??? I would be concerned with the possibility of causing a bacterial gastroenteritis from the non-cooked meat…especially chicken. The other concern I would have is the potential for obstruction whenever bones are fed to dogs, which could end a hunting season in a hurry.

Submitted June 26, 2004:
Q:
What commercial feeds do you recommend for a medium sized hunting breed?

A:
During hunting and intense training I will go with a Premium Performance Formula and during down times I’ll switch to the maintenance formulas. I’ve had the opportunity to feed a number of different brands to my own dogs over the years as well as use a number of the prescription diets from the various companies on client dogs.

Now, that being said, is there one food out there for all dogs??? I’d be lying if I said anything other than NO. I think the reason we have so many manufacturers is that a number of dogs will do wonderful on a number of brands. I would find what works for your situation, (i.e. activity level, stool quality, availability, etc.) and if it agrees with your dog I’d continue to feed it. My only brand recommendation would be to stick with a major manufacturer that is putting the money into researching their current products as well as continued improvement of existing products. Many of your less expensive brands are probably all right, but with the above companies you can be assured the product on the shelf has gone through rigorous testing and quality assurance.

The other thing I would stay away from is niche marketing, companies that tout themselves as being all natural, non preservative containing or only using the best ingredients. Don’t kid yourself into thinking that they are able to go down to the corner market, buy fresh ingredients, throw it in a bag and still be competitive on price with the other brands. Many of these companies play either to your emotions or your pocketbook (with low prices), but the companies I mentioned previously practice good science.

As far as a diet specific to medium breeds, I think any of the maintenance or performance formulas would be fine to feed.